Devices for a manual milling cutter do-it-yourself drawings. Making fixtures for a wood router with your own hands - a guide for beginners. We pay attention to the supports for parts when performing work

Which greatly expand the functionality and facilitate the work.

I decided to post only additional (mostly home-made) devices for the router, which I personally tested in my workshop, so the article will be gradually updated with new ideas.

Guide cut

In order to get a straight cut exactly where you want it, you will need to use a guide bar. You can make it from any board with a smooth edge, for example, initially I just used a piece of 16mm chipboard with dimensions of 1200x150 mm. The principle is as follows: the distance from the center of rotation to the edge of the milling base is the same and must be known. Finding it out is easy. Screw a guide to an unnecessary piece of material and make a test cut. Measure the distance from the edge of the cut to the tire, add the radius of the cutter and get the desired value. For my Ryobi it is 61mm.

Next, we do the following (for example, I use a straight groove cutter with a diameter of 12 mm, i.e. its radius is 6 mm). We draw a line along which the cut is planned, retreat from it a distance of 55 mm (61 mm - 6 mm), draw another line. On it and fasten the guide. We carry out the cut and make sure that its edge passed clearly along the first line.

Groove at the end of the board

If you need to choose a groove on the end of the board, then keeping the router straight without swaying it from side to side while driving is quite difficult. To expand the support for it, simply pull a couple more boards or a bar with clamps parallel to the workpiece, expanding the support. (in the photo I choose "" under the back wall on the already assembled one)

Another option for milling grooves at the end of the part (again under the "quarter" cut) is to use two parallel stops, inserting each into the sole with only one "foot". At the same time, the milling cutter is quite stable and does not move left and right.

Corner rounding

Often, in our projects, we have to round the corners, and do it the same way on all the details. To facilitate this process, I offer you such a template that will somewhat simplify and speed up the manipulation.

We work with it as follows: thanks to the side stops, the template is easily installed on the parts. We press it with clamps to the part (the corner on it is pre-cut off) and with a straight edge cutter (with a bearing) we draw it according to the template.

Compasses - cutting circles

To cut circles, it is not necessary to purchase a milling compass. His role may well be fulfilled ... parallel emphasis. It usually has a hole in it (if not, then you can do it). We turn the stop, install it in the holes on the sole upside down. We screw a screw into the hole mentioned above (which it is desirable to provide with some kind of sleeve so that its diameter matches the diameter of the hole, I used the sleeve from the anchor bolt).

Or like this: with fastening with a self-tapping screw already on the ejected part of the workpiece.

Everything, the compass is ready. The change in radius is controlled by extending the stop.

dust collector

When processing the edges with a router, a huge amount of dust is formed, which is not completely removed by a vacuum cleaner. I bring to your attention a self-made dust collector for a milling cutter. It allows the vacuum cleaner to remove dust much more efficiently.

Master class on making this pribluda.

Another dust collector (simplified design, same material) this time, for

Milling table

This is not even a device for a milling cutter, but a transfer of this hand tool into the category of machine tools. Two hands are freed, it is easier to work with large workpieces, and there are many more bonuses that we will definitely talk about sometime.

I wrote about how I made my first milling table in (I haven’t finished it yet, because I didn’t finish it)).

Edge base

To remove the overhangs of 2 mm PVC edges, the sole of the router had to be slightly reworked, . Instead of a regular plastic sole, I put a “step” made of textolite of a cunning shape. As a result, I got the opportunity to conveniently remove overhangs, almost like a professional trimmer.

Rip fence modification

The standard rip fence has a cutout in the center for the cutter, and not very long arms. Due to this, when cutting along it, entering the workpiece and jumping off it, the milling cutter may twitch. To prevent this from happening, you can lengthen the shoulders of the stop, for example, with a strip of laminate.

It turns out that a larger part of the stop is constantly in contact with the workpiece (compared to the standard one), which ensures greater cut stability.

To expand the functionality of a hand-held power tool, to make its use more convenient, comfortable and safe, devices for a manual milling cutter allow. Serial models of such devices are quite expensive, but you can save on their purchase and make devices for equipping a wood router with your own hands.

Different kinds of devices can make a truly versatile tool out of a hand router.

The main task that the devices for the milling cutter solve is to ensure that the tool is located in relation to the surface to be machined in the required spatial position. Some of the most commonly used attachments for milling machines are included as standard with such equipment. The same models that have a highly specialized purpose are purchased separately or made by hand. At the same time, many devices for a wood router have such a design that making them with your own hands does not present any particular problems. For home-made devices for a manual milling cutter, drawings will not even be required - their drawings will be quite enough.

Among the devices for a wood router, which you can make yourself, there are a number of popular models. Let's consider them in more detail.

Rip fence for straight and curved cuts

It is possible to ensure the stability of the router when processing narrow surfaces without special devices. This problem is solved with the help of two boards, which are attached on both sides of the workpiece in such a way as to form one plane with the surface on which the groove is made. The milling cutter itself, when using this technological method, is positioned using a parallel stop.

Template for a manual router installed in the "table".
More precisely, this is a homemade emphasis that can be used with a whole set of templates. The workpiece is placed in this stop along with the desired template and clamped with cam eccentrics.

How we usually use a manual router when copying parts according to a template. A template is made from durable sheet material, such as MDF. The template is attached to the workpiece with self-tapping screws and the part is passed by a milling cutter using a milling cutter with a support bearing, or a special copier ring, which is included in the standard set of fixtures and is attached to the site of the router itself.

From top to bottom, eccentric clamp, template, workpiece.

Assembled device.

Such options have their advantages, you do not need a table for a router. But with a large number of parts to be processed, twisting the template every time is annoying. This method is convenient in that the device you made can be used for a long time. And if you also make a set of the most popular templates for it, then time and labor costs will be significantly reduced. Unusual way of working.

The material for the base must be sufficiently rigid, you can probably use plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm. , but I think a 6-8 mm thick MDF board is better. . Vertical wall and eccentrics solid wood, oak, beech, birch as a last resort.

As a matter of fact, all parts except for the base platform can be made of plywood 20 mm thick. , but I think plywood eccentrics will be worse than oak ones.

On the vertical part, holes are drilled for the bolt with which the cams are attached. The holes are made in vertical rows so that the eccentrics can be rearranged in height, depending on the thickness of the part and the template. Hole markings are in the picture. The thickness of the vertical part made of oak is 16-25 mm. .

During assembly, the parts are twisted with self-tapping screws, the joints can be smeared with glue, and the hats must be drowned. Here it must be borne in mind that during operation, the base platform may fall under the cutter, and sooner or later it will have to be changed. As for the vertical part, handles and eccentrics, they should last a long time. Cams are mounted on bolts with a diameter of 5 mm. . Instead of nuts, it is better to use lambs so that it is easy to tighten them by hand.

The handles fasten the platform and the vertical part together, in addition, you hold the device in work for them. Make such classic curly ones, or use a simpler option, it's your choice.

Now it is very difficult to imagine any plumbing event without the use of a milling cutter. But not so long ago, people made grooves, made three-dimensional figures with the help of a planer, chisel and hacksaw. In modern times, various milling devices, including those made independently, are becoming increasingly popular. Do-it-yourself templates for a router make it easier to control the mechanism, help to process surfaces as accurately and accurately as possible.

Such a device is necessary where you need to make a hole, smooth the edge of the product, cut out a three-dimensional figure. Milling is used when cutting ornaments, patterns, preparing niches for installing corners, locking mechanisms, hinges. This tool allows you to remove the chamfer, round the edge of any part. According to its characteristics, the milling cutter resembles the actions of a planer.

This processing attachment works with wood, plastic and aluminium. However, each of the cases involves the installation of predetermined speed modes and appropriate equipment. Despite the active use of the milling cutter, such attributes of building significance as a chisel, a hacksaw, a cutter are still used in the work. The use of templates for these installations is often associated with furniture making.

Making a homemade furniture template

Any employee of a furniture organization knows perfectly well how difficult it is to make a corner kitchen. Installing a countertop requires precise joints, rounding the leading edge and flattening other parts. It is known that a flat edge, attached in the form of a rounded beginning, will acquire an unsympathetic appearance with a noticeable rough seam. In order for the trimming to be carried out correctly and accurately, a milling device and a specially made template for furniture are used. Creating such samples yourself is not so difficult.

The main devices, without which installation will be impossible, will be:

• fiberboard sheet;
• manual milling mechanism;
• blueprints.

Back to index

Step-by-step production of a template for furniture

Pieces of furniture, sawn according to the pattern, have the same shape and size.

1. Such a template, made by hand, will perform its functions no worse than purchased in a store. To create it, you need to prepare a drawing and a cover for the processing machine. Then a trial homemade product is made from a fiberboard sheet, its thickness is equal to 8 mm.
2. Next, the diameter of the cutter and the machine itself are measured. Then 2 intersecting lines are drawn, the angle of which is 135°. To smooth these indicators, an arc is taken. To calculate its radius, you should find out similar indications for the cutter and rings. From the value of the first device, the resulting difference in the radii of the rings and cutters should be subtracted.
3. It turns out the inner arc. At its base, a smooth end face of postforming is milled. As the ring moves along a given radius, the cutter describes such an arc, the diameter of which is equal to its own.
4. From the drawn segment, 2 lines are laid, parallel to each other. The distance between these points is equal to the diameter of the ring of the router used. 5 mm is added to these indications. The line originates from the middle of the previous arc.
5. The connection point of the segments is smoothed with an arc. Its radius corresponds to similar indications of the device thrust ring. During the movement, the cutter will no longer be able to perform arcuate movements.
6. You need to draw 2 equivalent rectangles imitating the contours of the countertop. An angle is superimposed on them, after which it is lengthened by a certain distance.
7. The marks put on the template will greatly simplify the work. The arcs of the upper and lower rows will not be combined. Therefore, it is necessary to reconcile for each detail slightly shifting these boundaries.

Back to index

Templates for a manual router

1. The first step is to make a template from hardboard hardwood, the thickness of which is equal to 6 mm. The height of the MDF stencil is 12 mm. These materials are very easy to process and are in no way inferior to wood. However, their corners buckle easily from accidental bumps or drops. In order for the templates to serve for a long time, it is necessary to take a high quality birch. Despite its high cost, unlike MDF, it has greater strength and constancy of characteristics.

On the surface of the template, the boundaries of the parts are drawn in compliance with natural proportions. Then starting grooves are drilled, unnecessary material is cut with a jigsaw, observing a 1 mm indent near the contour line. The edges of the edge are carefully polished, the paper stencil is removed.

1. Using a template, a given number of parts is created. Then this element is placed on the product and outlined with a pencil. Unnecessary material is cut out, moving away from the contour by 1.5 mm. Similar actions are carried out with other blanks.
2. With the help of double-sided adhesive tape based on fabric, the template is fixed on one of the products. To make the work go as quickly as possible, insert a cutter with a bearing on the shank into the collet of the machine. This part rolls along the edge of the stencil.
3. Then you need to select the type of cutter. All varieties with bearings are used for milling according to templates, the device is held in the hand and installed on the surface. With the help of a copy cutter, the operation of the machine is controlled at the moment when the part moves along the table, the template is located on top.
4. The space between the tip and the shank does not need to be machined with a bearing cutter in one pass. This can be done in 2-3 times, using a cheaper version of the cutter. Milling is carried out when the bearing is aligned with the middle part of the stencil thickness.
5. A thrust rod device is placed close to the cutter. The machine is turned on, the part is pressed against this part and gradually moves towards the rotating cutter until the bearing comes into contact with the template. Milling of external contours is carried out counterclockwise, internal outlines - in the opposite direction. At the moment of contact of the cutter bearing with the template, the part is removed from the rod thrust device.

The copying device at the shank functions similarly, however, it is required to rotate the part so that the stencil looks at the surface of the table. Milling is carried out similarly to the table. In the process of carrying out the manipulations, it is important to monitor the integrity of the base of the workbench.

Back to index

Wedge Templates for Hand Router

You can make a template in the form of spikes or wedges on your own. This connection is distinguished by elegance and is most often used in the manufacture of furniture. And there, as you know, high build quality is required. Using such primitive devices as a saw and a chisel in work, one cannot do without a certain experience in the construction industry, which cannot be said about a manual milling cutter. It allows even beginners to carry out the given work.

How do I get the template connection for the router so that it clearly defines the wedges on all the workpieces? To do this, you can use a manual machine with decent characteristics. The ring must be the right size for the machine, otherwise it should be purchased.

A wedge-shaped device of a partially hidden type can be seen from one side. The end-to-end connection can be traced from both points. To combine the two parts, the light element is installed strictly vertically. Periodically, the interdental space of the template is cleaned of sawdust. Upon completion of the work, the existing roughness must be processed with an emery cloth.

Milling machines belong to the category of carpentry equipment. With their help, various wooden parts are cut out, wood blanks are processed, giving them the desired shape. Manual routers are becoming indispensable assistants for craftsmen working at home. To give the workpiece an author's shape, tools for a manual milling cutter, which are easy to make with your own hands, help.

Manufacturing process of accessories

Manufacturers of milling cutters, taking care of consumers, include in the kit a simple set of tools that facilitate the work of milling cutters. There are two ways to get the rest of the set of necessary devices:

• purchase in finished form;
• make with your own hands.

If financial possibilities allow, then there is no need to spend precious time on making tools. But most home craftsmen, nevertheless, prefer to do them on their own. Moreover, the process of their manufacture is not particularly difficult.

Homemade fixtures do not require preliminary drawing up of drawings. You can make them using the simplest drawing, understanding the principle of their action, and having a minimal set of tools available.

Difficulties can arise only in the process of making a table for a manual router. Here you will need to make every effort to make calculations and designate the dimensions of the table. Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do without a drawing.

Manual milling machine - the basics of work

Before you get started, you must do the following:

• fix the cutter in the collet;
• make sure that the fixture matches the power and speed of the hand router;
• adjust the required depth of milling;
• if edge cutters are to be used, a guide ring or bearing must be installed.

It should be remembered that the workpiece must always rest securely against any surface. The immobility of the part must be ensured even before the router motor is turned on.

Features of the manufacture of a parallel stop

Parallel stop - This is the most common fixture for a hand router. It allows the cutter to move in a straight line relative to a reference surface such as the edge of a table or a guide rail. With the help of a parallel fence, you can mill grooves located on the workpiece to be machined, or edges.

This device is almost always supplied with a hand router. But in his absence, you can cope on your own. The parallel stop has a simple design, so it will not be difficult to make it yourself.

It includes the following elements:

• rods, inserted into the milling cutter body;
• stop screw, fixing rods;
• adjusting screw allowing you to adjust the distance of the cutter from the surface to be treated;
• support pads, due to which the device rests on the surface to be treated.

First you need to choose a flat base that runs parallel to the line of motion of the cutter. As a stop, any oblong object can be used, which is connected to the router with one, and preferably two, fixed rods.

To prepare the emphasis for work, you need to insert the rods into the holes located in the base of the router and fix them with a locking screw. Next, proceed to adjust the distance between the cutter and the stop surface by using the adjusting screw.

With the help of a parallel stop, you can create not only rectilinear, but also curly cuts. To do this, the device is supplemented with another detail - a wooden block. One side of the part should be straight, and the other rounded or angular. The bar is placed on the working surface so that its straight side rests against the stop, and the curved side rests against the base surface.

Manufacture of fixtures for processing poles and balusters

Each master can independently make devices for a manual router that will satisfy his personal needs. For example, a milling machine is used to process bodies of revolution - objects that have a rounded shape. These include poles, balusters and other wooden elements that have a similar configuration.

But in order to achieve a positive result, it is necessary to prepare a device that facilitates cutting grooves in the bodies of revolution. With it, it will be possible to perform longitudinal grooves and process along a round contour.

The design of such a device consists of the following elements:

• corps;
• mobile milling carriage;
• disk for setting the angle of rotation;
• fixing screws that ensure the immobility of the workpiece;
• stop screw.

To get started, you need to place the baluster in the body of the device, securing it with screws. Using a rotary disk, the part is placed at the desired angle and fixed with a locking screw. Further, a carriage with a milling cutter is set in motion, which cuts a groove along the entire length of the workpiece. To cut the next groove, the fixation of the product is loosened and it is again positioned at the desired angle.

All these operations are preferably performed with an assistant who will slowly rotate the workpiece. The operation of the device can be automated by supplying it with a drive from an electric drill or the most primitive screwdriver.

Spike Milling Secrets

"Thorn groove" is the most reliable way to fasten wooden parts. It is used in the construction of houses from timber, flooring and other domestic needs.

To make such an interlock connection, it is necessary to observe high precision when cutting the spikes. And the best assistant in this difficult task is a tenoning device for a manual router.

General view of the dovetail tool

Thanks to its versatility, it is possible to perform milling of various interlocks, including straight and more complex ones, which include the dovetail.

The main element of the tenoning device is a copy ring. It ensures the accuracy of the movement of the cutter, moves along the groove in a special template for the router. You can make a copy machine with your own hands. To do this, you need to select the groove patterns that will be cut using a milling machine.

Conclusion

A hand mill is a functional device, so novice craftsmen do not always understand why additional devices are needed. But the desktop version of the milling machine is non-professional equipment, and therefore it is not capable of performing all the necessary processing operations. Having made additional devices for the router, it will be possible to turn the manual device into a full-fledged processing machine.

For example, if you fix a manual milling machine on a guide, you can facilitate the process of performing work and improve their quality. In addition, such a device has such a simple design that even a novice home master can make it on his own. And if you fix a plywood triangle on the sole of the machine, you can make rounded corners.

Having made all the necessary devices with your own hands, you do not need to stop there. You need to develop your skills in the chosen direction. You can conquer the next peak if all milling operations are performed on a lathe. But first, you will have to make additional devices for it.

By expanding the capabilities of this equipment, it will be possible to process flat surfaces, cut grooves and grooves, and process parts along a round contour. The main thing is the desire to improve skills.