DIY country house 3 by 4. Frame garden house (35 photos): projects. Construction of frame, walls and roof. Interior decoration. Materials for construction

What can you use to build a residential house in your country house? How and how to insulate a garden house with your own hands? What should the foundation be? The purpose of this article is to introduce the reader to several popular solutions and their key features.

Foundation

On what foundation can a small summer house or one intended for year-round use be built?

Design

• ideal for dense, non-heaving soils with minimal building weight (frame houses, sip panels). It consists of columns made of red brick or concrete blocks on a sand bed, connected by a grillage made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 and higher.

By the way: the cheapest type of columnar foundation is old car tires filled with concrete.

• For heavier materials or those sensitive to minor deformations (brick, foam blocks, aerated concrete), a strip monolithic foundation is preferable. It is poured into a trench dug to a depth of 30-50 cm with a backfill of compacted sand or crushed stone. The height of the above-ground part is 25 - 40 cm; reinforcement - two-layer, spaced from the lower and upper surfaces of the foundation by at least 3 centimeters.

• Finally, for plastic clays and wetlands, the best solution is a screw foundation. Screw piles are screwed into a depth of 1.5 - 3 meters and transfer the weight of the structure to the underlying, denser layers of soil. Their heads are connected with a grillage made of timber, channel, I-beam or profile pipe.

Waterproofing

The surface of the pillars and strip foundations is waterproofed with a couple of layers of roofing material before attaching the grillage or lower trim. It prevents capillary suction of groundwater and dampening of the wall material.

By the way: for a wooden grillage or lower frame of wooden walls, it is better to use not spruce or pine, but rot-resistant larch.
The price of a cubic meter of larch timber is only 25-30% higher than that of pine.

The surface of screw piles and steel grillage is protected from corrosion with bitumen mastic applied in two layers.

Walls

Let's find out what walls are most often built from.

Shell rock, limestone

Residents of the southern regions of the country, where open-pit mining of sedimentary rocks is carried out, often build a garden house from these materials with their own hands. A one-story building can be safely built with a thickness of half a stone (about 20 cm), followed by insulation or plastering of the walls.

An important point: a large-porous shell with such a thickness of masonry will be blown through.
For winter operation of the building, it will have to be plastered on both sides at a minimum.

For masonry, a regular cement-sand mortar is used in a ratio of 1:3; rows are laid with ligation of vertical seams and level control. The first row of the strip foundation is laid out on a 2-centimeter concrete pad.

Aerated concrete, foam blocks

A small garden house made of foam blocks can be built with your own hands without a reinforced frame or even an armored belt; the strength of the masonry is ensured only by the rigidity of the foundation and the ligation of the rows. For masonry, aerated concrete adhesive is used; The thickness of the seam is no more than 3-4 millimeters. This ensures minimal heat loss through the seams and ideal wall geometry.

Brick

A thin-walled garden house made of brick with your own hands is the worst solution in three respects at once:

1. Cost per square meter of masonry. Brick is noticeably more expensive than foam blocks or shell rock.
2. Speed ​​of wall construction. Large blocks are placed much faster.
3. Degrees of insulation. In order not to be unfounded, let's compare brickwork with alternatives. In the table we present wall thickness values ​​for different materials that provide the same degree of thermal insulation.

Nevertheless, brick is popular due to its strength and presentable appearance of walls made from it.

The wall material is brick.

In our case, it is better to use a porous building material: its lower mechanical strength with a small wall height is not decisive, but the lower cost and better thermal insulation qualities will come in handy.

Frame construction

It is a frame made of timber and boards, covered with OSB boards on one or both sides. If necessary, the cavities inside the walls are filled with insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

In most cases, partial reconstruction of a garden house or the addition of an attic is carried out using frame technology: a timber frame can easily be combined with any other building materials.

Sip panels

They provide the maximum degree of insulation and the highest speed of construction. The panels, which are a sandwich of two sheets of OSB and a layer of expanded polystyrene, are connected by an insert made of timber. The OSB is hemmed to the timber with self-tapping screws; Before assembly, the seams are foamed.

In addition to low thermal conductivity, sip panels are interesting for their high rigidity with low weight. For example, you can build a garden hut with your own hands without a frame and rafter system: panels and insert beams will provide sufficient strength.

A nuance: the dimensions of the panels are tied to the standard dimensions of the OSB sheet (1.2 x 2.5-2.8 m).
In turn, to minimize the amount of waste, it is better to make the dimensions of the house a multiple of the panel size.
If so, you can’t build a 3x4 garden house with your own hands; its dimensions will be either 2.4 x 3.6 or 3.6 x 4.8 m.

Insulation

How can you insulate a garden house with your own hands?

Foam coat

1. Foam plastic with a density of C-25 and higher is used for external wall cladding. It is attached with cement glue; glue beacons compensate for uneven walls. For additional fixation of the slabs, plastic dowel umbrellas are used.

1. The same cement glue is applied to the surface of the foam with a wide spatula; Reinforcement is pressed into it - fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm and a density of 160 g/m2. The mesh is glued with strips overlapping by 50-100 mm.
2. The fiberglass mesh is covered with a layer of glue in such a way as to hide its texture.

Further finishing is at the discretion of the owner; Usually the walls are painted with facade paint or finished with decorative plaster.

Hint: instead of polystyrene foam, you can use glued mineral wool slabs. It is safer in terms of the possibility of fire, but is noticeably more expensive.

In-wall insulation

The instructions for insulating frame buildings are even simpler:

1. The frame sheathed on the outside is covered with a waterproofing film.
2. Mineral wool insulation slabs are inserted into the frame inside the frame.
3. They are closed with a vapor barrier.
4. The inside of the frame is covered with OSB boards or two layers of plasterboard.

Ventilated façade

Where vapor permeability of the walls is important, the facade is made ventilated:

1. The walls are covered with lathing (bar or galvanized profile).
2. Mineral wool slabs are installed under the sheathing or between its elements, spaced apart, with additional fixation with dowel-umbrellas.
3. covered with a windproof membrane.
   
4. The facade is covered with siding along the sheathing.

Conclusion

Of course, we have described only a small part of the list of possible solutions. As always, the reader can find additional information in the video in this article. Good luck in construction!

The dream of metropolitan residents is a beautiful house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.

Choosing a location for a future country house

Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space.

Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:

• from the street - 5 m
• from the passage - 3 m
• from the neighboring plot - 3 m

We are not considering the option of a low-lying area - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in its northern (northwestern) part.

Country house made of timber - a modern choice

For construction, timber from various types of wood is used: linden, larch, pine. Natural wood is the most environmentally friendly building material. Wooden houses create a unique atmosphere that has a beneficial effect on the physical health and emotional state of people. The life-giving aroma of the forest is incomparable. Houses made of timber do not need finishing: natural wood looks aesthetically pleasing and gives the room a special charm, very suitable for the country spirit.

The undeniable advantages of a house made of timber:

• at any time of the year, even in severe frosts in winter, the room easily and quickly warms up to a comfortable temperature;
• the total weight of timber houses is relatively small, so the construction of a powerful foundation is not required, which saves effort, time and money;
• wood is able to absorb excess moisture, being a natural humidity regulator, thanks to this a special microclimate is established in wooden buildings;
• quite durable: nature itself has provided the tree with the ability to withstand constant climatic changes - changing cycles of freezing and thawing, precipitation, wind, etc.

House made of stone

An inexpensive and reliable stone for a country house - foam concrete - a building material made in the form of blocks of cellular concrete. Composition: cement, sand, water and foaming agent. This is the most inexpensive way to build a country house made of stone. Foam concrete blocks are not distinguished by their aesthetic appearance, but their surface is easy to process and decorate.

Advantages of a foam concrete house:

• creates a comfortable microclimate for life all year round;
• refractory;
• high level of sound insulation;
• long service life;
• budget;
• the light weight of the material allows you to save on the construction of a massive foundation;
• high level of thermal insulation: keeps cool in summer, warm in winter.

An alternative to a house made of foam concrete is a country house made of brick or natural stone. The most durable and reliable material, which is not afraid of almost any natural phenomena and other influences of a mechanical or chemical nature. The main disadvantage is the high cost of the material itself and construction work.

Building a brick or stone house will require a lot of time. Here you cannot do without a reliable monolithic foundation. Its construction is possible only with the use of special equipment. It will take more than a month to lay the foundation and dry the concrete. Only after this can construction continue.

There is also a significant disadvantage in the operation of a stone house. Its interior takes a long time to warm up, especially if it was left unheated for some time or was heated to a minimum. Therefore, a stone country house is not the best option for those who use it extremely rarely in winter.

Many people like to get a country house in just a few days. After all, to do this, you just need to choose the building project you like, and then sign the agreement. The “designer” of your house is delivered to your site by the contractor in a semi-assembled form. The final stages of assembly are carried out as quickly as possible.

They weigh quite a bit. This means that you can use a pile type of foundation. These types of houses are very attractive and not expensive.

The disadvantage of this structure is that you can only use the country house in the warm season. And no options for insulation or heating systems will help cope with frost and retain heat.

In addition, you will not feel very good in them in the sultry heat, since the house gets very hot in the sun and it is simply unbearable to be inside. In this case, you will definitely need to install a ventilation system or air conditioning. Yes, such house options are inexpensive, but their operation will cost a lot! Therefore, think carefully about what type of material you should choose to make your country house practical, reliable and beautiful!

Modern houses in high-tech style

Progress does not stand still, and with the development of technology, the requirements for homes are also growing. Country houses in the high-tech style have become very popular recently. The number of variations, types of installation and facade will not leave indifferent many who want to build their own home. Modern fashion trends are gradually making their way into construction.

Projects of country houses in the high-tech style are chosen only by those people who want to be imbued with the spirit of modernity and experience technological progress for themselves. These houses combine maximum functionality and living space well. Such buildings became most popular in Europe. The EU countries were the legislators of this architectural trend.

All details comply with the principles of minimalism. It’s not for nothing that high-tech is considered technical minimalism. There are no flashy or overly bright colors in such a structure. All forms are strict, restrained and sometimes smooth. The façade immediately catches the eye. Main materials: glass, plastic, wood, metal. In percentage terms, wood predominates.

A frame house is an excellent solution for a country house. This structure can be erected in a short period of time and does not require special construction skills. Today we will talk about how to build a frame house on a site, we will talk about the main stages of construction and mistakes made that are easy to avoid. The design really exists, it was made by hand.

Frame house project

Preparing a frame house project is the initial and most important stage of construction. allows the construction of buildings of different heights and purposes on the site. We decided to build a 6 by 4 light frame house on the site, consisting of one single room, with four windows and a hip roof. Insulation of the house was not provided, since it is planned to be used exclusively in the summer.

You can find it online, or you can draw the project yourself. To develop a project, special programs are mainly used, but if the house does not have complex architectural solutions, you can draw it by hand on a regular sheet of paper.

Project of a frame house on a piece of paper.

The drawing must indicate all the functional parts of the house, such as door and window openings, the roof structure, the thickness of the walls, floors, you can indicate what materials will be used in the work and calculate the approximate cost of construction in order to build a frame house inexpensively.

It is the design drawing that allows you to determine what economic costs will be needed for construction.

Frame house foundation

Once the decision has been made to build a frame house for a summer residence and a rough plan for it has been drawn up, you can begin to select a suitable site for construction. The surface should preferably be flat, then there will be no problems with installing the foundation and installing the floor.

We decided to do without a foundation and started building the floor directly on the ground, which was leveled with gravel. This is the first and main mistake when we started building an inexpensive frame house.

Installation of floor joists on crushed stone.

We built the floor frame from nine 150x50 mm six-meter-long boards, which allowed us to install transverse floor joists without joints along the entire length of the house. In addition, we used two more four-meter boards, which were placed on the end of the log. The distance between the floor joists was 500 mm, which is quite enough for the given thickness of the board and the thickness of the plywood for the floor.

Before thoroughly nailing the floor joists together, you need to make sure that the diagonals of this base are equal to each other. You also need to check the location of the frame house relative to the neighboring fence and. It is important to check the horizontal level of the floor joists that are located on the crushed stone, and if necessary, add it easily.

Despite the fact that a turnkey frame house is considered a fairly lightweight structure and can be built directly on the ground, the foundation of a frame house performs certain functions:

1. Evenly distributes loads from the entire structure.
2. Ensures the durability of the structure, protecting it from freezing and groundwater.
3. Prevents warping and shrinkage during soil movement.

Strip foundation

Before building, it is better to choose a strip foundation for that type of construction. You will spend more time and effort on construction, but you will make the entire structure durable. Strip foundations will be especially in demand if construction is carried out on stable soils.

Strip foundation on crushed stone.

When constructing a strip foundation, you can organize additional rooms in the basement. If a basement is not planned, then soil remains inside the foundation contour. Please note that the width of the strip foundation should be greater than the thickness of the walls of your frame house.

After the construction of the foundation is completed, the lower frame of the floor is installed, it is done using a beam or board placed on the end. The board is installed around the perimeter of the foundation, or along the perimeter of the future house directly on the ground (as in our case). The joints are connected using nails; the structure can be further strengthened using special metal staples. To enhance the load-bearing capacity of the floor structure, transverse joists are installed.

On a note

The floorboard must be treated with an antiseptic.

When building our house, we immediately started installing the frame, but after framing it is advisable to start installing the subfloor. If the house is planned to be used not only in the summer, insulation material is laid between the joists, then a vapor barrier film, and the last layer is plywood sheets.

Frame of a frame house

A do-it-yourself frame country house has a lightweight structure and a lightweight frame. The frame of the frame house is attached to the floor frame.

Initially, corner posts are installed; metal brackets can be used for reliable fastening, but we did without using them. The U-shaped frame of the wall is knocked together at the bottom and must be fastened with corner jibs, and only after that it is raised and fixed on temporary supports.

To ensure greater reliability of the structure, we attached each corner post with additional jibs at the top and bottom, so they protect the frame house in the photo from loosening. We nailed two corner posts of the frame in each corner together with 100 mm nails.

After installing the main corner posts, you can begin to secure the remaining ones, one each on a four-meter wall and two posts on a six-meter wall. The boards of the top trim along the long wall are fastened together by two beams.

Hip roof

As soon as the main supporting frame of the frame garden house has been erected, you can begin to build the roof truss system.

We decided on the type of roof and its slope at the stage of drawing up the design of the future house. A small frame house will have a hip roof, with a minimum slope for that type of roof of 20 degrees. In a hip roof, two slopes have a trapezoidal shape, the other two have a triangular shape.

The frame summer house has a hip roof, which provides additional protection for the entire structure due to the fact that all slopes are inclined.

At the first stage of the construction of the rafter system, the installation of the mauerlat is carried out - a special wooden beam or board, which is installed along the entire perimeter of the frame walls. In this case, we did without muerlat, and distributed the load over the top strapping, which has good rigidity due to the fact that it stands on the end of the board.

At the next stage, the ridge girder is installed, the size of which must be calculated correctly, since it is this component of the roof that bears the main load. The two-meter-long ridge girder and central rafters were assembled on the ground, and only then were they lifted up and installed.

After fixing the ridge girder, they install diagonal rafters, which, like the ridge itself, are made of 150 by 50 mm boards. Diagonal rafters rest with one edge on the ridge, and the other edge on the corner where the top frame of the house meets. All fastenings are made using ordinary metal nails, which does not in any way affect the strength of the structure.

When the power frame of the hip roof is ready, you can continue to build the roof further. The intermediate rafters and outer rafters are attached, which we made from two inch pieces nailed together.

After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to install the hip roof sheathing. We made it from an inch and began nailing it from the eaves overhang towards the ridge, with the same distance between the sheathing boards.

A one-story frame house can be covered with a roofing covering and a regular metal profile can be used. This roofing material is easy to work with; it is coated with special substances that protect against corrosion and premature destruction. Other advantages of this roofing material include light weight, affordable cost and a huge range of colors.

Before installing the material, you need to take care of additional protection of the structure. For these purposes, you can use a waterproofing material that is attached directly to the rafter system with metal brackets. But we did not use it for the reason that the frame house will not be insulated.

Installation of the metal profile begins from the end of the roof. The main thing is to install the first sheet correctly; the location of all subsequent ones depends on it. The first sheet of metal profile is attached to the ridge girder using self-tapping screws, all subsequent sheets are overlapped with the previous sheets and connected with self-tapping screws.

External cladding of the house

After completing the roof construction, you can begin cladding the frame. In our case, the frame of the frame house was sheathed on the outside with OSB sheets. In this case, only two far walls were sheathed with OSB, one of them was directed towards the fence, and the other to the side. Before the OSB sheets were screwed onto the self-tapping screws, we installed additional 100 mm inch posts.

For the summer frame house, we decided to make four large square windows of 1500 mm each, because we wanted more light. We also made the frame for the windows from an inch board; it turned out to be light, because the entire load is carried by the power frame of the garden house made from a 150 by 50 mm board.

The two front sides of the frame country house were covered with a block house to add individuality to the structure. Due to the fact that the house was built only on weekends, the block house was immediately treated with a special wood impregnation to imitate mahogany.

In the place where the door is mounted in the house, two racks made of 150 by 50 boards were installed to more securely fasten the door.

If you plan to live in a house not only in hot weather, then it is important to insulate the interior walls with mineral wool and waterproof the interior walls after working with the block house. The waterproofing film is attached around the entire perimeter of the interior; it simply covers the opening. After attaching, the film is carefully trimmed and secured inside the window and door opening using a construction stapler.

After this, you can begin finishing the frame house with your own hands.

Interior lining of the house

The interior cladding of the house is done using lining. Since the frame garden house was originally planned to be used only in the summer, the walls were not insulated; the frame was simply sheathed with OSB sheets and blockhouse.

To improve the performance characteristics of the structure, insulation is performed. At the previous stage, we already wrote about how to properly lay waterproofing film after installing insulation. Most often, such structures use either mineral wool or ordinary polystyrene foam.

They can be built on a summer cottage; they are made from special panels, the design of which already includes both insulation and waterproofing. The lining is attached on top of the insulation.

Windows and doors

When fixing windows, be sure to leave openings that will be filled with polyurethane foam. If the profile does not have a protective transport film, it is better to paste it around the perimeter with mounting tape; this procedure will protect the structure from expansion of the mounting foam.

Our inexpensive frame house used windows that open to the sides like on a balcony. If you encounter difficulties during installation, it is better to involve specialists in the work. The protection of the room from cold and moisture will depend on the correct installation of window and door profiles.

On a note

The polyurethane foam is carefully trimmed only after it has completely hardened; at the same stage, all protective films are removed.

Laminate flooring

You can begin installing the finished floor only after completing the installation of windows and doors, otherwise air entering the room from the street can cause damage to the floor covering.

In our frame garden house, we decided to use high-quality laminate. Laying is carried out on a subfloor made of plywood, on top of which a special sealing material is laid.

Roof insulation with foam plastic

After completing the flooring work, we started thinking about insulating the roof and further increasing sound insulation during rain. This is another serious mistake - it is advisable to complete all the finishing work, including the roof, and only then begin installing the floor covering, otherwise there is a high risk of simply ruining the floor.

We decided to insulate the frame country house with our own hands using polystyrene foam. The foam panels are attached to the rafter system from the inside of the house tightly to each other; if gaps remain, cold air will easily penetrate into the room. It is not necessary to attach a waterproofing film between the roof sheathing and the foam.

The foam is covered with OSB panels on top, after which you can begin finishing the roof or leave everything as is.

Today we talked about how to build a frame garden house with your own hands, based on personal experience. Some mistakes were made during the construction process, but they had virtually no effect on the overall functionality of the structure.

The frame house took several years to build, because most of the time was on weekends and only on our own. With such DIY construction, you can count on low prices for frame houses. In our example, you saw that anyone can build a frame house, even without deep construction skills.

After purchasing a country plot for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes urgent. Well, building it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, you are planning a huge “palace” that requires the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually compact buildings are chosen for a dacha, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for a country house building is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.

Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the location and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.

Proe ct of a small country house

The size of the future house largely depends on the area of ​​the summer cottage, the number of family members and the financial capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and work time.

Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Larger buildings are erected much less frequently, and mainly in cases where they are planned to be used year-round. But this, most likely, will not be a country house, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that can be established by the board of the gardening association, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. The following distances are most often required:

• The house must be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring plot, and from the fence separating the plot from the general passage (street) - 5 meters.
• In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone building, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden building.
• To prevent the house from blocking neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building at least equal to its height.

Usually, to install a country house, the highest place in the area where Water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. Increased humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always have a negative impact on the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, the following construction technologies are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log houses, walls made of blocks or bricks.

For summer cottages, designs of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are predominantly chosen. Often a building has an attic space used for storing garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday use, but which can always be useful in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes simultaneously serve as a ceiling.

If the family is large, and the area of ​​the plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be used as a living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor you can arrange cozy sleeping areas for the whole family.

Not at all necessary in a dacha building, build a full second floor, since its role can be perfectly fulfilled by an attic superstructure. By decorating it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful, healthy country atmosphere.

Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for heating the premises must still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Typically, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast iron heating and cooking stoves.

By the way, if you plan to build a real fireplace or brick stove, then they must be included in the project being compiled.

There are also ready-made versions of country houses, sold complete in disassembled form, which simply need to be delivered to the site and assembled. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which outline the procedure for carrying out the work, basic technological techniques and connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.

For the owner of the site, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house yourself. The main advantage of this option is that the kit often already includes everything necessary for the building’s electrical network, its ventilation system, and even for installing the water supply.

Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name

What type of house to choose?

Having decided on the approximate plan of the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. This choice will determine not only the appearance of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.

• The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. A wooden house can be built using a frame method, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is considered to be the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, there are special fire-retardant impregnations on sale that significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is people’s neglect of basic fire safety requirements that in the overwhelming majority of cases becomes the cause of fire.

• The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with good reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less susceptible to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and the high price of materials.

• Very often, different materials are used when building a country house. For example, a house is built from wood, but on a foundation made of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since a foundation made of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls made of wood, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house.

It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.

Stages of construction of a country house

Materials for building a country house

If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then it’s better to purchase a prefabricated ready-made model of a house that has a certain area, for which you only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Prices for various types of timber

Foundation material

For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:

— sand, crushed stone, cement;

- third-grade board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

— waterproofing material (roofing felt);

— expanded clay of the middle fraction.

Wall and roof material

Since wood was chosen for the construction of the walls, other materials will be selected based on this:

— bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;

— fastening elements — nails, self-tapping screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening nodes;

— vapor barrier film;

— insulation — mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;

— to cover the roof, it is better to choose a lightweight material — ondulin or corrugated sheeting.

Once the installation location for the future house has been determined and the materials have been purchased, you can proceed to arranging the foundation. True, first you will have to decide on its type.

Country house foundation

Even when erecting such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you cannot do without a foundation. In this case, one of two types is ideal for these purposes - a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.

• A column foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.

You can find out in detail how to build it correctly by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a strip foundation, you will need not only a larger amount of materials, but also a fairly long period of time. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug along the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install a reinforcement structure, build formwork and fill the foundation pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will take another month until the filled tape completely hardens and gains brand strength.

However, strip foundations are still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient because it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, to do this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. is described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by following the link provided.

If a columnar foundation is selected, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then pour a 30 ÷ 40 mm layer of sand into the resulting pit, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion mid-fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be filled with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done to ensure that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They cannot stand expanded clay (especially small clay), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.

To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to cover the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.

Construction of a frame structure

A frame house can be placed on either a columnar or strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be reliably waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing felt.

• If the project includes a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general wall frame. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• Without exception, all wooden workpieces must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of insect nests or colonies of microflora representatives - mold or fungus.

• After the workpieces have received proper preparation and are completely dry, during construction, a lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to install the floor.

In order for the floor to be reliable, it is necessary to use high-quality timber of the required cross-section for the frame. If funds allow, then it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of dimensions, but by placing a certain margin in their cross-section.

The table shows the optimal dimensions of timber for a frame house:

• The frame support beams are mounted on crown bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are secured using corners or by inserting. If the elements are large in cross-section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.

• When the lower frame with support beams is ready, the wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then, when finished, lifted and secured to the framing bars.

Another option is to lift the frame directly into place. For example, if a house is being erected independently, without helpers, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the tent alone to the height of the frame, install it evenly and temporarily fix it until it is finally secured. This means that each of the bars will have to be placed separately.

• The size of the bars for the wall frame posts must be at least 100x100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm.

The bars are secured to the lower frame using powerful corners that can hold them in a vertical position. It is best to use self-tapping screws rather than nails for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• When installing vertical racks, you need to immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they are to be installed free in the frame, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.

Then, when the upper strapping block is installed and secured to all other vertical posts, the area with the window opening is secured to the space left for it.

• All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal struts on both sides - they will add rigidity to the entire wall structure.

• The doorway is installed in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since a door suspended on hinges has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.

• If you plan to sheathe the frame from the outside with clapboard, then this is the next step. The sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow the installation of the attic floor to continue and

Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof will be covered on the same day. It is highly undesirable for your freshly laid flooring to get wet if it rains unexpectedly at night. Therefore, it is better to first resolve the issue with the roof, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of rafter systems

A few words need to be said about the types of rafter systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, it is necessary to have a general idea about this, to know which design is better to choose.

There are two types of rafter systems - hanging and layered.

Hanging system

The hanging rafter system is distinguished by the fact that it is installed only on external load-bearing walls and has no other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house building. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, hanging rafters are fastened with ties.

The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously serve as a frame for lining the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.

Layered system

A layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal permanent partitions that will become additional support points. This scheme can also be used when constructing the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on the foundation.

When installing this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so it will be possible to use fewer retaining elements. It is perfect for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.

Floor beams

The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit tightly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut out at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

The beams are secured to the frame structure of the walls using nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.

Having completed the installation of the ceiling beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary plank flooring is laid on the floor beams to ensure comfortable movement along the attic plane during installation of the rafters.

Installation of the rafter system

The roof truss system can be mounted using different sequences of fastening its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the outer pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then lift them onto the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
• Second option. To begin, install the middle posts along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge beam or board, onto which the rafters are then attached.
• Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are attached to each other with a ridge plate, and their lower side is fixed to the wall frame, which in this embodiment will act as a mauerlat.

The cross-section of beams or logs used for rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two support points, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters

It should be noted that the attachment point for the rafters in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened to the ridge and how long they are.

If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the load-bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a notch is shown in the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut at a right angle to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed to it using a special fastening plate, a sliding support, an angle, a bracket, nails or long screws.

If the house is very small, then after securing the rafters to the frame, tying them with ridge beams or boards, you most likely will not have to install additional supporting elements.

Detailed information about the exact details can be obtained from a special publication on our portal by following the recommended link:

For installation of additional reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for the roof deck.

• The first thing that needs to be done on the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with staples and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.

The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.

• The main batten is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, onto which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the sheets of roofing material.

If a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of sheathing slats, the slopes are covered completely - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing felt, which are overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and glued together with bitumen mastic. Another option is to use soft bitumen decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.

• The following roofing materials are most often used for wooden houses (depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
  

• The selected roofing material is laid and secured onto the prepared base. The work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are installed according to the same pattern.

Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation pattern in direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions supplied with them.

Also, for any type of sheet roofing material, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction along the roof are determined.

• Almost all roofing materials are secured to the sheathing using special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to correctly select and secure the ridge elements of the roof, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Typically, the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
• Next, the eaves of the roof are finished - this can be done with wooden or plastic lining. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.

• Then elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the wind board - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.

• Next, the gable sides of the rafter system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards are used for this.

For the lining, a special profile is fixed around the perimeter of the pediment triangle, into which the prepared panels, cut at the desired angle, will be installed. Installation is usually done symmetrically - from the middle post to one side and then the other - then the cladding will be smooth and neat.

By the way, install the lining, Besides, you can do it horizontally, in a herringbone pattern, or come up with a more complex pattern.

Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.

Now, having finished the external finishing of the roof and being confident that rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can move on to installing windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.

Installation of windows and doors

• Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them and leveled. For preliminary fixation when placing the frame, spacers made of wooden blocks or slats are installed between it and the opening bars.

Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give neatness to the overall appearance of the house.

• It is best to install the door together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure with the level in the wall doorway.

When exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, place wedges (inserts) made of wooden slats. The door frame is secured to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with polyurethane foam.

Having installed all the windows and doors, you can proceed to installing the floor.

Installation and insulation of floors

To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.

• To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame supporting beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.

• Next, boards cut to exact size or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick are laid on the skull blocks - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
• The subfloor laid on top is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are laid overlapping (by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and taped at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Next, insulation material is laid or poured onto the vapor barrier film. If you don’t want to have neighbors who like to live under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.

• Another layer of film membrane is laid on top of the insulation, which is nailed to the supporting beams with staples. The installation principle is exactly the same as on a subfloor.

• The entire structure is then covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is missing, place insulation along the internal slopes of the roof.

• First, a vapor barrier material is attached to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is covered with clapboard, plywood or plasterboard.
• After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. Insulation mats are laid between the frame posts. It is necessary to ensure that the mats fit as tightly as possible against the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.

That is why mineral wool is most often used as insulation - after being tightly laid between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.

• After this, all walls are again covered with vapor barrier film.

• The next step is covering the walls with wooden paneling, plywood or. The latter, during subsequent decorative finishing of the walls, can be painted with water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Next, the attic floor is insulated, where the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

If the ceiling is sheathed on the side of the house with plasterboard or clapboard, then we must not forget that you cannot step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. You must move carefully along the floor beams.

• If the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden supplies, then a flooring made of boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm should be secured on top of the insulation on the floor beams.
• The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor skirting boards and closing the corners with fittings.

Extensions to the house

The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and porch.

If a place is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.

Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to do without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable craftsman who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how to correctly install certain components in the structure of the house. You can “mobilize” your relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.

Video: building a country house using frame technology