How to make a desk with your own hands drawings. Do-it-yourself Guillaume table-desk made from plywood according to drawings. We make a children's table from furniture board with our own hands

The son is growing up and he needs a workplace to practice literacy, draw, read, etc. Moreover, this place should not be at a coffee table, but a full-fledged one that instills correct posture. In short, it should be a desk for growth, that is, with varying height.

Just in the garage there were several MDF parts lying around that I couldn’t figure out where to stick (after all, you couldn’t put an edge on them, and the dimensions didn’t allow them to be used entirely). And then it dawned on me that in size this is a finished tabletop, and if you cut something out of them, you can close the edges!!!

The table should consist of two halves: a base standing on the floor and a tabletop moving up and down along the guides. The legs and tabletop are MDF, the rest is chipboard scraps.

So, I started with MDF. I drew out the outline of the legs on pieces of hardboard and cut them out with a jigsaw. The edges were smoothed with a sander, making a solid smooth outline (according to the markings).

I copied the second part using a milling cutter. I described in detail about the production of parts with radii.

I immediately selected a groove for the edge using a disk cutter. I didn’t touch the legs because I wanted to make sharp corners.

The next stage was the manufacture of racks for the table top. (under them I found a couple of parts sawed on a format machine and never used, even covered with PVC edges on three sides). I laid them on the legs and marked the edges (the guide bars will subsequently be screwed along these lines).
I moved on to the guide bars themselves. Since the desk should have a tricky shape, you decided to abandon the rectangular profile and made them in the form of a “stroke.” I estimated the dimensions and curvature by eye so that they would not go beyond the contours of the supports. One edge (along which the stand will slide should be smooth, preferably with a PVC edge - it is more wear-resistant) I cut it out with a jigsaw and polished it with a belt sander.
If you put everything together, you get this sandwich. Naturally, all parts are made in duplicate (and given that MDF is one-sided, it is mirrored)

Then I sawed the drawer for the base and the shelf under it with a length of +32 mm relative to the drawer. As well as a drawer and a shelf under the tabletop of equal length.

The next stage is this. I will not dwell on this in detail - everything has already been described earlier. I’ll just say that I only put the piping on the legs and one shelf (there wasn’t enough anymore) and rolled the rest in melamine.

Now comes the fun part - assembly. All of it was carried out on confirmations. I started, as usual, with the base of the table. I twisted the front guide bars with the frame and screwed the bottom shelf to them (it was made for greater structural rigidity).

Having placed the support on the workbench and aligned it along the marking lines that were drawn at the very beginning, I first screwed the entire block to the support. Fastening was carried out with a pair of self-tapping screws (then I will cover it with self-adhesive plugs). After the front beam was fixed, I put the tabletop stand in place and attached the second beam, fixing it in the same way.

We perform all the same manipulations with the second support. For some reason I didn’t take a photo of how I assembled the stand under the tabletop, but the principle is exactly the same: the drawer and shelf are pulled together at an angle, which are screwed to the stands from the sides.

As a result, we get a couple of ready-made blocks like this.

They fit into each other quite tightly. All that remains is to screw the tabletop.
This shortcoming was quickly corrected. In order not to strain too much with the markings, I screwed them onto four plastic corners.

Basically, all that remains is to drill a number of holes in the racks for the table top and one opposite in the support and drive a bolt there. Although, I'm thinking of using a driven-in adjustable support as a “wing”, and instead of a through hole in the support, drive a driven-in nut into it, like this:

But this is in the foreseeable future. While my Yaroslav's size is on time, I ran to work.

Well, and finally, a few photos from other angles.

We assemble a growing chair with our own hands.
I think it would be superfluous to once again talk about the relevance of the problem of maintaining correct posture in children. One of the most important conditions is to ensure correct sitting posture, which depends on many parameters. Regular chairs will not work. Unfortunately, office chairs with gas lift are also not able to solve this problem, since they do not have an adjustable footrest or seat reach adjustment, and adjusting the seat height and back angle alone is not enough. In such a situation, a special adjustable chair will be a great solution!

On the Internet you can find many different options for every taste. From all the variety I chose the design I liked.

The design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. She is very technologically advanced. It is important to take into account the ratio of the sizes of the elements, their relative position, the strength and stability of the entire structure. Of course, we couldn’t find any drawings on the manufacturer’s website or on the Internet. Therefore, I had to develop the drawings myself. All the more interesting. The design took several days.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a plotter at my disposal to output images of the required size, and the program I worked with doesn’t know how to print large images in parts (or I simply couldn’t figure out how to do it). Therefore, we had to solve the problem in a roundabout way. Part drawings were saved as regular high-resolution photographs. Then, using the free PosteRazor program, they were converted into PDF documents containing drawings at the required scale and divided into separate A4 sheets.

Do I have the right to publish them? Am I violating someone's copyright? After all, I saw the chair on the Internet and someone was designing it! Let's figure it out.

This situation can be looked at from two points of view: ethical and legal. We will omit the ethical side of the issue, because a whole range of well-reasoned opinions is possible here and most likely it will not be possible to arrive at the truth. But from a legal point of view, the search for truth is not so hopeless.

So, legally, a chair cannot be an object of copyright. In this case, according to the Civil Code, it can be either a utility model or an industrial design, which are recognized and protected only subject to state registration, on the basis of which the federal executive body for intellectual property issues a patent. There is no mention of any patents on the manufacturer’s website; most likely, no one patented this chair. To be honest, I don’t see what can be patented there - in comparison with analogues, there is no particular novelty or originality. Although the design is quite successful. And I didn’t find it on www.freepatent.ru. This means that I will not violate anyone’s patent rights for lack of any.

But drawings, according to the Administrative Code, are objects of copyright and are protected without any registration by default, as a type of work of fine art (computer programs, by the way, as literary works). The drawings I developed are not an exact copy of the original, which is not available to me, but are the result of intellectual work and reflect my vision of the design, the general features of which I saw in photographs. And as an author, I have every right to publish the results of my work. Unlike those who, without permission or a link to the source, post articles from my blog on their websites to attract visitors. You have to put copyright on the photos.

Well enough tediousness, it's time to get down to business!
Drawings of a growing chair can be downloaded from the link: https://yadi.sk/d/-nS9on3WmbxdF
If there is no detail in the archive, then its description will be further in the text.

We print them like a regular multi-page document on A4 sheets. At the same time, in the Acrobat Reader Print Wizard, it is important not to forget to specify the “Actual Size” scale. As a result, after gluing together the individual sheets, we get a drawing of the part on a scale of 1:1.

We cut out the drawing of the racks along the contour and paste it onto a sheet of plywood.

Plywood with a thickness of 22 mm was chosen as the material for the racks. We cut out the first part, departing 5 mm from the contour. In general, the quality and accuracy of the cut are not very important. If only there was some reserve left.

Now the resulting rough edges of the workpiece must be aligned exactly according to the drawing. I usually use the term “combing” to refer to this action. To do this, we press a flat strip against the workpiece along the line of the drawing and go along the edge with a copy cutter with an upper bearing. I processed the fillets by guiding the router with my hands, followed by adjusting the fillets with a grinding machine. You can spend more time on this preparation, because... it will serve as a template and the quality of the remaining racks depends on the quality of its processing.

Now, having a template, we mark and cut out the remaining blanks for the racks

Next, use self-tapping screws to secure the template to the workpieces. To tighten the screws, we make holes in the template in the places where there will be holes for attaching the seat and footrest. In this case, the head of the twisted self-tapping screw should not protrude from the template.

And using a copy cutter we align the edges of the workpiece according to the template.

Using a router inserted into the table, we make a groove in which the elements that secure the seat and footrest will move. For simplicity, I decided to call them runners. The groove depth is 10 mm, the groove width is 24 mm (it might be more convenient to make the groove width equal to the width of the existing plywood - 22 mm, but there was no such cutter in the workshop).

In the middle of the groove we make holes at equal distances. On the back side of the workpiece, where the drill exits, you must place a block so that the drill does not break out the bottom layer of veneer. It will be extremely difficult to close or disguise such a chip.

We do the same with the runners. We print the drawing in real size, cut it out and paste it onto a sheet of plywood. Next, we cut it out with a margin and “comb it” as we did with the stand template.

From the same sheet of 22 mm plywood, using a jigsaw, we roughly cut out future runners with a margin.

We use the same self-tapping screws to fix the template on the workpiece.

And on the milling table, using a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpieces according to the template.

Using an edge moulder, we round the edges on all the resulting parts. Rounding radius 4.8 mm.

Next, a rail is cut out, with the help of which the runners engage with the groove on the racks. Rail height 20 mm, width 24 mm. Because I didn’t have either 20 mm or 24 mm plywood, so it was decided to make the slats from solid ash. This wood has excellent strength characteristics.

A corresponding groove was made in the runners on the milling table and slats were glued into it. At the same time, when you make a gutter, you must not forget that there are right and left runners.

After the glue has dried, the slats are sawn and ground flush with the runner body. There are also holes made in the runners for fixing them on the racks.

The runners also have gutters milled parallel to the floor. Gutter depth 10 mm, width 16 mm. These gutters will hold the seats and footrests. In the next photo you can see the finished runners.

We do the same with the seat and footrest templates: print the drawing, glue it onto plywood and cut out the blank.

In order to make even roundings, I used a thin strip of 5 mm plywood, passed between the screws that set the desired radius. It bends well and creates smooth transitions. How this is done can be seen in the photo:

As a result, we get two templates - footrests (left) and seats (right). Next, we work with them according to the already worked out scheme - we mark the blanks (we trace the templates with a pencil) and cut them out using a jigsaw with an indentation of 5 mm. 16 mm plywood was used for them, although 22 mm is also possible. We fix the template on the workpiece using self-tapping screws and work out the edges with a copy cutter. Having ready-made templates, the whole operation takes a few minutes. The small holes left on the finished parts from the screws can either be simply ignored due to their small size, or hidden using putty at the grinding stage. Personally, I took the first path. Don't forget to round the edges using an edge bevel cutter.

The template for the back was made “on the spot”. That's why there is no drawing of the backrest. I made the top and bottom edges according to the seat template. Back height 100 mm, Width 464 mm (depth of groove for backrest in racks 10 mm). After the template is ready, we make a couple of backs using it using a jigsaw and a copy cutter in a few minutes.

There are three bars in total in the chair. They are made from the same 22mm sheet. The dimensions of the crossbars fixing the runners are 399x50x22 mm. The lower crossbar (in the lower part near the floor) - 444x30x22 mm. Using a 10 mm straight cutter, we make grooves for countersunk furniture nuts - barrels.

Next, we make a groove for the backrest. The angle of the backrest was chosen in accordance with GOST 19301.2-94. "Children's preschool furniture..." The angle of the backrest is at least 5 degrees or more. My chair has an angle of 11 degrees - it seems to me a very comfortable angle.

We get a small pile of parts

Each chair is assembled using hex bolts and countersunk furniture barrel nuts. The bolts have dimensions 6x70 and 6x50, nuts - 10x20 and 10x12. The mounting kit is shown in the photo.

Ready. As they say, “it seems true.” During assembly, the quality of workmanship and fit of parts is checked, minor defects are eliminated, and “finishing with a file” is carried out. At this point, the sawing, drilling and milling stage is completed.

The sanding and painting stage begins. Now the chairs are completely disassembled and all parts are sanded before coating. I used 180 paper. In some places I had to fiddle with 80 and even 40.

Painting work is a separate discipline. A poor finish can ruin the entire job. Winter outside and lack of heating in the workshop made adjustments to the usual process. I had to paint the chair right at home. Therefore, neither a spray gun nor multi-component smelly varnishes can be used - only a non-smelling water-based varnish and a brush.

Because The chair was made from leftover plywood, some parts were dirty. Unfortunately, it was not possible to completely get rid of them by sanding, so I decided to cover one chair with a dark color - “mahogany”, the second - with glossy opaque milky enamel. Only the first one is ready so far. The second, dairy, is waiting for its time.

If, after applying the first layer of varnish, the color applied unevenly, the parts are covered with bald spots due to different degrees of absorption, the pile has risen and the surface has become like sandpaper, and in general it all looks terrible and you want to throw it all away, then you are on the right track. After the first layer has dried (after three or four hours), we take 180-grit sandpaper and sand all the raised pile. Next we put on a second layer, after drying the surface became a little better - there was no lint and the color went on more evenly, but it was still far from the picture on the label of the varnish can. Therefore, we matte the parts with the same sandpaper and apply a third layer. There's a fourth behind him. And so on. We continue until the result satisfies you. For this I needed five layers, which took two days.

The growing chair is ready. The cost of two chairs is a sheet of plywood 1500x1500 mm, 22 mm thick, fasteners for 50 rubles. and a can of varnish. This also includes electricity, depreciation of fixed assets, and worker’s wages.

I saw similar designs on Amazon for 250 US dollars - not a price, but some kind of tin. With us they are, of course, much cheaper.

Despite the dubious design, the design is quite thoughtful.
This is not just a children's chair, it is more like office furniture for a schoolchild. Because it is schoolchildren who spend many hours first doing lessons and then playing computer games, and for them the correct comfortable posture is important for posture, less fatigue and preservation of vision. At the same time, schoolchildren are also actively growing.

For greater comfort, you can make removable soft pads for the seat and back. As an option. But I don’t see any particular need - usually school furniture without pillows. Armrests are also not particularly necessary, because when writing or working on the keyboard, the elbows should rest freely on the table so as not to cause tension in the shoulders. All these calculations are described in a whole variety of GOSTs and the growing chair corresponds to them. Overall, I'm pleased with the result.

You can purchase some items from this blog in our VKontakte group:

For our granddaughter Mashenka, my son-in-law and I made an age-appropriate small school desk with our own hands and a comfortable chair where you can look through picture books, draw, sculpt from plasticine, or lay out toys.

Required: 50 cm piano hinge confirmations self-tapping screws metal corners cutting a pine furniture board (for a desk, see diagram 1, for a chair, see diagram 2).

DIY drawings of a children's desk

DIY school desk assembly

To ensure that all wooden parts were very smooth, we treated them with sandpaper: first coarse P40, then medium P120 and finer P220. All sharp corners were rounded with a jigsaw. Semicircular grooves were cut out in the legs so that a child, sitting at a desk, could comfortably stand up and turn right and left without resting his knees.

The legs were connected to the bottom of the box using confirm mats and a screwdriver into pre-drilled holes, lowering the bottom 8 cm below the edge of the legs (Diagram 3). Then we fixed the front wall of the box so that its top edge was flush with the legs, forming a smooth box. We attached the back wall of the desk to them with screws so that it protruded a couple of centimeters above the top edge of the legs.

The tabletop was attached using a piano hinge (photo 1) to the back wall of the desk so that it could rise and fall freely and, resting on the legs, formed a flat horizontal surface. This created a shallow drawer under the tabletop for storing albums, coloring books, pencils and other small items.

By the way
The protruding edge of the back wall of the desk prevents pencils and felt-tip pens left on the tabletop from rolling off and falling to the floor when the lid is raised (photo 2).

Assembling a chair for a set with a desk

The legs were secured at an angle to the seat using a trapezoidal support board, which was inserted in the middle between them (Diagram 4). All parts at the joints were secured with metal furniture corners to strengthen the connection (photo 3). The back was attached in the same way (photo 4). For stability, semicircular recesses were cut out on the legs in the supporting part. A groove for the backrest was previously cut out in the seat (photo 5). The latter was rounded off at the top and a heart-shaped hole was cut to make the chair easier to carry.

The furniture was varnished in two layers so that it could be easily washed from paints and spilled liquids.

On a note
To cut out the heart, we first drew it with a pencil on the back, then drilled holes along the inner contour with a drill and connected them using a jigsaw.

Any student class, from the youngest to the graduate, required place to study lessons.

Desk for schoolchildren should be functional, convenient and uncluttered. Most often chosen for children wooden desks.

Today, when from the first grade students work with computer, there should be room on the table for it too.

Manufacturing DIY school table - significant saving for the family budget. You can decorate the tabletop in the most incredible ways, and then the table you made yourself will look like an expensive designer thing.

School desk options

Table for first graders should be spacious so that there is enough space for textbooks and notebooks.

For more adult student, you can purchase or make a multifunctional table with retractable panel for keyboards and with many shelves or drawers on the surface.

It is very important that workplace the child was as comfortable as possible, and all the necessary for classes things were at hand.

School tables can be completely various in appearance and design - from simple angular and straight to creative

Folding table

Table-desk

Desk for schoolchildren

We won't consider typical desks that stood in all Russian apartments in the 90s of the last century. Such tables boring in execution.

Let's consider unusual table with A-shaped legs (trests) and solid long tabletop. You can use an old one as a countertop door canvas with a smooth surface.

Stages of work

Step 1. Draw and cut out table top. We process it with sandpaper or a grinding machine. You can make a special edging on the sides finishing edging, which is sold at any hardware store.

Note: with the edging, the width of the finished tabletop will be 72 cm!

Step 2. Cut 8 boards long no less 75 cm (if necessary, the edges will need to be trimmed with a jigsaw), sand them.

Step 3. Corner tilt boards for trestles should be such that the height of the legs in total with the thickness of the table top was 75 cm. To do this, cut out small bars, which will be located between the upper parts of the supports. The width between the lower parts should be 22 cm.

Step 4. In two boards 70 cm long drill two 9 mm holes (for mounting the trestle). The holes should be equal distance! Above retreat about 3.5–4 cm, it all depends on the width of the board. Drill holes in the middle of the upper part of the legs 9 mm. Furniture bolts we fasten legs and strengthen the structure self-tapping screws.

Note: The size of the bolts is 6 mm, and the diameter of the holes for them is 9 mm! This is necessary because the table legs are attached at an angle.

Step 5. At the bottom there is a goat we fix two bars long 19 cm. The height of the fastening of the bars is not less than 3 cm from the floor. On bars we lay two boards each that will serve shelf, We fix them with self-tapping screws.

Step 6. Having measured the distance between the goats, screw it on wooden blocks to prevent the tabletop from moving.

For the best sustainability It is recommended to use countertops dowels. To do this, drill holes in the supporting boards with a depth of 8 mm, and in table top – 22 mm. The dowels should be dipped in glue PVA and drive into the board, then carefully place the tabletop on them. For such massive table you need to make 2-3 dowels on each side.

Step 7 All wooden parts of the table should be handle impregnation. For a children's table you need to apply no less 3 layers(so that it is impervious to moisture). Each layer should fully dry out. After the last layer has dried, the table is painted or varnished. Can be mixed with varnish a little coloring to give it the desired color shade.

Note: The table can be decorated if desired. The best decorative technique for a children's table is simply choosing a cheerful picture or decorating the tabletop with images of your child's favorite characters.

School table for two children

Convenient and practical may be an option for two children angular table. Each child is provided with a work place and retractable drawers for storing educational supplies.
Tabletop width – 600 mm, thickness – from 16 mm.

Stages of work

Step 1. Execute sawing material or order it from a carpentry workshop.

Step 2. Collecting everything boxes. There should be 6 large ones (3 pieces for each table base) and 4 small drawers for various small items under the tabletop itself. Holes for confirmations drill using a Fostner drill. We nail hardboard to each box.

Note: confirmations can be replaced with ordinary self-tapping screws, but their connection is not so reliable.

Step 3. Using corner clamps assembling the cabinet. Fasten with self-tapping screws guides for boxes.

Step 4. We assemble the table. Tumbu and lateral We fasten the wall on top with small chipboard. Cover the part with a larger sheet rear walls. We install guides on small drawers and facades.

Step 5. In the same way we collect second the table that will longer due to two cabinets.

Step 6. We install the tabletop on short table. To do this, screw it onto small sheets.

Step 7 We attach the tabletop to second table.

Step 8 Install facades on large boxes, attach to them pens. We nail hardboard.

So that the child has comfortable work at a new desk, you should take account following:

• • Width The table for a child should be from 60 to 80 cm, length from 120 cm.
  • Boys require more workspace than girls.
  • Workplace It is recommended to organize a schoolchild near the window.
  • Definitely worth installing on a desktop lamp with bright lighting. For right-handers, the light should fall from the left, for left-handers - from the right.
  • The chair should be comfortable, it back – rigid with bending. Good decision - orthopedic armchair.
  • Screen monitor should be located during operation below eye level at an angle of 15-30 degrees.

• Color spectrum The workplace should be selected based on the child’s wishes, but you should not make it too colorful and full of poisonous colors. A tacky table can distract child from doing homework. It is enough to choose bright accessories and furniture.
• Accessories are worth choosing creative shapes: and the children's table should have its own zest. Business minimalism – not the best option for a child.

How to make a table for a schoolchild with your own hands, see video: